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Q: What is the difference between polyester and rayon thread? Which type should I be using?
A: Polyneon, the brand name of Madeira's high sheen polyester thread, is recommended when you need a yarn which will be heavily stressed, for embroideries on industrial textiles or any that are to be washed extremely frequently. It also has high resistance to chlorine, bleaches and artificial whiteners this is why it is often recommended on work wear.
Madeira Classic, the universal favourite, is made from viscose, or rayon as also known. Madeira Classic has a high natural sheen, is incredibly flexible in production, kind to machines and environmentally friendly .
Q: Is polyester thread flame retardant? What type of thread is flame retardant?
A: Standard polyester embroidery thread will melt and stick to the skin. For heat and flame resistant thread try the Firefighter range available in 24 colours, ideal for workwear and protective clothing. Made from 100% Aramid the fibre used for Nomex.
Q: Do you have a replacement for Tanne or a similar thread with a matt finish in your range?
A: New to our range this year is our Frosted Matt thread. It's the world's first truly matt finish and extreme light fastness embroidery thread, with the added benefit of chlorine resistance and available in 161 beautiful colours, including seven amazing fluorescent colours.
Q: Does Madeira have any empty boxes or cone holders for storage?
A: Yes we have the empty starter kit boxes that can hold 47 1000m cops each in it's own compartment. Alternatively we have 24 peg wooden cone stand, this can either be free standing or fixed to a wall, ideal for storage of Madeira cones.
Q: Do I need to use silicone spray to prevent my threads from breaking and looping?
A: No! Do not use silicone spray on embroidery thread, this was a traditional method used on sewing thread. Extra lubrication of good quality embroidery thread set up correctly on the machine should not be necessary.
Q: What are the differences between Madeira's plain, sided and magnetic pre wound bobbins and which type should I be using?
A: When it comes to pre-wound bobbins it's more about personal preference and what works best for you. The difference between sided and non-sided are that sided pre wounds cannot fit in some bobbin cases and on the other hand, some customers believe that the sides guide the thread better. Magnetic core pre wound bobbins are highly recommended, as they will provide you with consistant tension during the full use of each bobbin with a cleaner run and an even distribution of the thread.
Q: Why does Madeira have so many different weights of threads? What are the reasons for the various types?
A: One of the main reasons we have such a broad range of threads is we are an international thread company and because of this deal in a wide market – fashion, sport, homewares, corporate and promotional – all with different demands. The 40 weight thread is the most commonly used across Madeira's range and is what's seen as the international standard weight. For fine detail or small text on your embroidery it is advisable to use a finer 60 or 50 weight thread, as seen in our Classic and Polyneon and FS Metallic ranges. If you want to cover a large area with the embroidery and lower your stitch count when doing fill stitches, you would use a 30 weight thread which is thicker. You will also notice a 12 weight in our Classic range, which is recommended for heavier style embroideries or as decorative or top stitching.
Q: I am having problems embroidering small lettering. I find some types of fabrics actually absorb very small lettering. How do I resolve this problem and what is the minimum size for text?
A: It is possible to create small text with clarity, even down to 3mm stitches! Use a finer weight of thread Classic/Polyneon 60 and FS 50, using a smaller needle 60 to 65. The new Frosted Matt is another option for clear, smaller stitches. There cannot be any cutters inserted between each letter, each one has to be linked or you will end up with partially stitched text, due to the limited amount of stitches per letter. For difficult fabrics, towelling or fleeces, use a stabilising water soluble fabric or create a filled underlay to match the colour of the garment and embroider the small text on top.
Q: Madeira has such a wide range of backing, which backing is used for what?
A: When selecting the correct backing for a job it is important to consider the type of material you are embroidering on to. Unstable materials will require more support, requiring a heavier weight or fusible backing. The main two backing types are Tearaway and Cutaway. Tearaway is perfect for faster production because you can just tear it away, so no time wasting trimming. On the downside, it can provide less stability than cutaway backing, which is a denser construction so holds the stitching better. In turn, Cutaway can give better results and a neater finish to your embroidery but is more time consuming as trimming is involved.
Q: There are a few types of fabrics difficult to embroider such as lycra, how do I combat this problem?
A: Non stable fabrics like Lycra are often difficult to embroider on because of their make up, we would recommend you use our stick-on-peel-away backing. Or you could use one of our fusible backings, or stabilise your standard backing with a temporary adhesive spray.
Q: How do I create 3D embroidery?
A: To try and achieve the 3D raised effect with embroidery, popular on caps, has often proved quite difficult. Madeira has introduced Bodybuilder, which is a new, simple to use 3mm foam, available in black and white on 30cm x 40cm sheets. To achieve 3D embroidery, lay your foam on top of the garment or head wear. Your Stitch density will have to be increased slightly or alternatively use a thicker thread such as CLASSIC 30 to give more stitch coverage and prevent the foam from exposing. Use column satin stitches which are popular for embroidered text and secure the ends with a few stitches, to stop the foam from pushing through. Embroider the full design and afterwards remove the excess foam. To request the sample DST file to practise using BodyBuilder, contact Madeira direct.
Q: Are there any forms of embroidery techniques which will help to enhance my designs?
A: Embroidery knows no limits! There are three 'standard' styles of basic stitches – running, satin and fill stitch. Thread textures and thicknesses alter the appearance of your design and modern software of today provides their own versions of the three basic stitches. Your imagination, creativity and expertise do the rest!
Q: What is the maximum width for satin stitch? I personally find the wider the stitch the more it catches and unravels?
A: 7mm is the maximum width of a satin stitch in 40 weight thread, as long as the thread is kept taut, any wider you will have to resort to a ceeding or tatami stitch. Remember when edging badges, to ensure the stitch is wide enough, you may need a thicker thread.
Q: I often find that thread becomes brittle and dry during certain months of the year especially during the winter. What are the reasons for this?
A: This can occur due to the cold weather! Just as you would take a while to warm up from freezing temperatures, threads may need a little time to regulate prior to machine use. You will find that all embroidery thread performs better at standard room temperature. Another problem that can happen is caused by humidity during summer - thread could split after absorbing moisture in the air. The answers are therefore more concerned with perfect storage and management - it is advisable to store your thread at 'regular' room temperature and of course in a dry place.
Q: When should I use ballpoint and sharp point needles?
A: Sharp point needles are used for tightly woven fabrics and ball point for most other materials for example polo shirts, fleeces, knits and piqués.
Ball point needles separate the fibres whereas the sharp point pierces the fabric.
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