There are different ways of producing badges for smaller quantities, from conventional to new inventions. The benefit of creating badges is that there are no risks of damaging goods and no worries of embroidering on difficult fabrics.

Making badges conventionally you need pre-bonded twill, felt, or similar to produce your own blanks. Hoop up a large frame then stitch the design complete with a running stitch around the design in the shape and size of the badge you want. Next cut out the badges by hand, using the running stitch as the cutting line. Now you will need to finish the edges of the badges, this will require a merrow style machine, which takes practice in order to master different shapes and corners. After the edge is complete take the loose tail and glue it to the back of the badge or use a latch hook to pull it through the merrow border to secure it. 

Conventional ways of making badges with blanks or stitching it complete

Type one: Custom made blanks complete with a merrow edge. These blanks can be purchased from emblem distributors and are available in different shapes and sizes. Working with these blanks is like working with an appliqué.

How to punch for blanks?

Create an outline in the same shape and size of the finished blank. Next punch this shape into your programme, using a running stitch. Now you have a placement line. Next, programme in a trim and then a stop. You can also place in a movement so that the frame will move forward giving space in order to lay down the blank.

At the machine, hoop up a piece of tearaway backing. Once the placement line is stitched, when the machine stops, take the blank and place it within the outline. To hold the blank in place you can use an adhesive to secure it. When the embroidery is finished then just rip it away from the backing and the badge is finished.

Things to consider when choosing this process:

1. Are there minimum quantities for purchasing blanks?
2. Can you get the right shapes you will need?
3. Are the colours and merrow edges suitable for you?

Type two: Stitch the complete badge and cut it out.

First, hoop up a large frame of pre-bonded twill or twill fabric with a backing. Next stitch the badge with a satin outline in the shape of the badge. When using this process some embroiderers recommend reinforcing the satin border edge as in the image shown. In order to do this, you will need to create a wider border. First punch a border half the size in width of the covering border, with half the density. Then punch the finishing border on top. This reinforcement will help secure the edge when the badges are cut out by hand.

With this process you are not limited to the shape and size because you create your own. The result is a nice clean edge on your badge. Cutting is time consuming though and you need to take care not to cut into the stitched borders of the badge.  The background fabric colour can also be a problem if the customer insists on a particular shade.        

Other techniques and inventions

Madeira's film

Madeira's film is a special plastic foil. Just because it is plastic does not mean that any old plastic will work. With this foil you can create fully embroidered badges, without having to hand cut and to avoid the step of finishing the badges with a merrow machine. The process is simple: frame up the foil using the smallest possible hoop for your design. The punch program should be punched with two grids of thread that oppose one another, in the size of the entire design. The rest of the design is punched onto this. To finish your badge, punch a nice satin border to finish the edge. When the design is completely embroidered, take it out of the hoop and push out of the film. This process is easy when using smaller frames. When using a border frame you will find that you need more practise and in many cases you will have to use up to two layers of the Madeira's film, so take the cost into consideration when pricing. The technique offers many possibilities and freedom. You can create any shape and size, all different types of thread can be used.  This technique increases the ability to produce new and interesting types of badges or full embroidered fashionable appliqués.

AFS Automatic Framing System from Madeira

This innovative embroidery frame for making full embroidered badges, fashionable appliqués and name badges, is changing the way of making the process even more effortless.  The AFS is a device that can be attached to the embroidery machine up to six heads. The AFS sits directly under the sewing head. The framing system uses E-Zee PreFrames (size 12 X12 cm). These are consumable AFS foils on special continuous frames, automatically fed through the device just like printing stationery.  This means, no fabric, no backing, no hooping. The punching process for this is like the Madeira's films using an embroidered grid as the base for the embroidery. You will also need to place a satin border around the edges of the badge to create a nice clean edge so you can push the completed embroidery out of the foil.

The speed of this system means 10,000 stitches can be produced 25% faster than using conventional frames. Even with new quick changing framing system that take 15 to 20 seconds per head to change by hand, the AFS  takes only 1 second for a frame to change, regardless of how many heads and you do not have to touch it. The AFS can be pre-programmed to produce the desired number of badges leaving you the freedom to do other task.

There is always the argument that fully embroidered badges are too costly to produce.  When thinking of the AFS one has to consider and take into account there is no need to hoop, no down time for changing of frames, no cutting of the finished badges and no fabric and backing cost. So the cost can balance out when compared with the other techniques.

This frame is not just for making of badges but even name tags and fashionable appliqués. Madeira now offers special AFS foil with pre-cut blanks in various standard shapes and sizes which can be used for creating name tags or badges with fabric background.

AFS is making the personalization of badge and name tags with designs much easier. The AFS allows you the ability to pre-embroider badges or name tags with designs without the names. You then leave the embroideries inside the E-Zee PreFrames. At a later date you can then feed the E-Zee PreFrames through and embroider in the names, without worrying about alignment. Just feed the E-Zee PreFrames through the AFS device and drop in the names.

The AFS comes with small monogramming software in which you can load in name lists using note pad, excel or word programmes. Each name can be automatically sewn out without having to programme in at the machine individually. 

Finishing

Regardless of how you create your badges the finishing process at this time is the same. The question is: How do I apply them to the garment? One way is to sew them on directly. The other way is to apply a heat seal backing. It is best to buy the strongest one that will hold up to repeated washings.

To apply the heat seal you will need to use iron or even better a heat seal press.

Next lay your finished badges or name tags onto the heat seal as close as possible not to have any waste, then apply the heat. Once it is bonded you must cut it out by hand.

If thinking about expanding your embroidery service by offering badges and name tags, take a deeper look at all of these options above and pick the best for your business.

Bonnie Nielsen is an internationally renowned embroidery artist and puncher, winning many awards. Her technical skills make Bonnie an integral part of Madeira's global technical team.

For more information please email info@madeira.co.uk; www.madeira.co.uk

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