The reasons for this varied, but would always include the time taken for the changeover and the difficulty in framing. But maybe it is time that we had another look at this subject, especially at the new developments that have made cap embroidery easier and more productive.

The cap
When the cap, or more correctly, the baseball cap was introduced into our market, embroidery was not a main consideration where its designers and manufacturers were concerned, so it was difficult to achieve.

However, necessity is the mother of invention and the machine manufacturers found ways of helping users to satisfy this ever-increasing demand. The design of the cap was also set to change, making it more embroidery friendly – this was in direct response to the increase in demand.

Initially most cap embroidery was part of the bulk order generation, produced for the large multi-national sportswear companies. This type of order was mainly handled by the large multimachine embroidery plants that were a common part of the embroidery industry scenery. As things changed though, and the number of small orders increased, something had to be done to enable the smaller embroiderer to quickly and profitably embroider caps – meaning the design of the cap became increasingly important.

Just as companies like Quadra redesigned items like CD cases to make them more embroidery friendly, companies suck as Beechfield started to look a lot more closely at the design features of the humble cap. One of the difficulties they had, however, was in retaining the cap’s shape and fit while making life easier for the embroiderer. Many different designs were tried with varying degrees of success (and failure) until we reach a point today where the modern baseball cap, while maintaining its cosmetic attraction to the wearer, has become an easier item to embroider. However, buyers beware – don’t assume that all caps fall into this category. If in doubt about a new style, try before you commit to buy in bulk.

The machine
It is many years since cap frames appeared on embroidery machines and although those first efforts may now look archaic and ill thought through, they represent a major breakthrough in embroidery.

They enabled a machine that had been designed to drive a pantograph in x and y directions, to rotate a frame so that embroidery could be achieved on a curved surface. Sounds easy now, but this was a major piece of work in those days and certainly a development that changed the face of embroidery. But what of now? Ironically, there was little development following this initial burst until a few years ago when fashion dictated that embroidery should be available around the side of the cap as well as on the front.

The original style of frame would not allow this as it consisted of an aperture on the front of the frame, thus limiting the embroidery to the front of the cap. The four sides of this aperture were the main holding points of the frame and so to remove three of these, and therefore allow embroidery around the side, the frame had to be redesigned.

It was also at this time that the high fronted ‘truckers’ cap was replaced with the ‘low crown’ head hugging style. Although this new style of frame increased the embroidery area around the cap, there was a pay-off in the fact that it reduced the available height. But this was deemed to acceptable by the industry and the ‘all round’ cap frame was born. This, however, did not solve the problem of framing, which has always been more difficult than flat or tubular style. Unfortunately this is still the case although it would be fair to say that the newer frames are easier to handle and, if the user is trained correctly, present a lot fewer problems than previous models.

The ease of framing and use will also vary between machine manufacturers and this can be seen also in the time taken to change from flat or tubular to cap. With most machines this still involves unscrewing and removing one drive or sash and replacing it with the rotary cap driver. At the point of writing, the only manufacturer that can offer a quicker method is SWF who have just introduced the Quick Change Cap Frame. This works in exactly the same way as a flat or tubular frame, whereby it attaches using two arms directly onto the standard drive or sash. Simply take off the flat frame and immediately attach the cap.

Design and technique
It would be true to say that many years ago, an embroidery pattern destined for a cap should have been digitised specially for that product. If it was not, then the embroiderer could expect, and would get, problems especially where quality was concerned. However, the changes made in machine manufacture, cap design and technique (see below) have had a serious impact. In the majority of cases now, a design made as a left chest logo can be used on a cap.

There are, however, some rules that should be noted. One of the most common mistakes made when designing for caps is with the height of the design. If the design is too high on the cap there is a chance that the cap may rub on the machine and impede rotation, resulting in poor quality embroidery. As a rule the embroidery should be as close to the peak, or band, as possible. And where two colour lettering styles are concerned embroidery should be done by the letter and not by the colour (this should also apply to polo shirts. So, in general, things are now easier from a digitising point of view, but what about technique?

This will vary with the individual but a couple of rules are worth remembering. As with all items to be embroidered, the firmer the product is held, the better it will embroider, so make sure that the cap is framed up correctly and that as much tension as possible has been applied to the front and sides. Many frames utilise specially designed clips to hold the back of the cap so make sure you use them – they are there for a reason.

One of the biggest changes has come with the type and size of backing used on caps. Many may think that a backing is not required on a product that has a stiffener in the front to create stability, but they would be wrong. A backing, or interlining, is still required and a robust one at that. In general, an 80gm non-easy tear will give good results but it is not just the type, it is also the way it is used. Remember the ‘all around’ frame from earlier? Well, this naturally involves much more movement or rotation than the standard window style. A cap, remember, is made of panels and no matter how flat the seams are there are bound to be uneven areas on the inside of the cap. By applying the backing around the whole of the frame area, you are supplying a smooth surface for contact with the machine. This results in a smooth, interrupted rotation and will improve quality.

As you can see, much has changed over the years, making cap embroidery easier, more productive and therefore a more viable profit centre, even for smaller embroiderers.

For more information about any of the items mentioned in this article contact the author at Your Embroidery Services Ltd on 01623 863343, or e-mail sales@yesltd.co.uk

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