It seems as though backing has always been a part of embroidery and, in truth, it probably has. Even in the days of hand embroidery in hoops some fabric needed to be stabilized which is, of course, the main reason for using a backing fabric. With machine embroidery though the importance of the backing became more significant and an industry was born. In more recent years water soluble backings and toppings have also appeared on the scene but we will cover those in a future article. Here we will concentrate on the non-woven type of backing.

Why it is necessary:

The main reason for using backing is to stabilize the area that is being stitched. As you know an embroidery pattern consists of a great number of stitches in a very small area and has a totally different effect on the fabric than say sewing a seam. If this area is not supported then it will move which will result in the pattern seeming to move off line. In reality of course there is nothing wrong with the pattern it is just the fact that the fabric has moved part way through the embroidery. Because of the need for this stabilizing effect it is important that the backing is completely stable and will not stretch or move in any direction. This could be achieved by using something like a woven cotton but the expense would be prohibitive and so the ideal, for both economic and production reasons, is a non-woven material. In earlier times the type used as interlining or facing in garment manufacture was commonly used but in more recent times manufacturers have produced a number of different types specifically for embroidery.

Cut-away or Tear-away?:

 The answer to this depends on a number of things with one of the key ones being your customer. If we look at quality, and only quality, then cut away backing will win every time. After all if you cannot tear it by hand then it is far less likely to give way during embroidery therefore achieving maximum stability. Tear-away is however the popular choice today because it is easier to remove and gives a cleaner finish to the reverse side of the embroidery which was the original reason for it being used in the first place.

How much should you use?:

This may sound like a bit of a silly question because everyone knows that the answer is two or is it? Over the years the habit of using two pieces of backing has become the standard but this was originally conceived because of the lack of choice in types and weights. Today there is a much greater choice and there is a good argument for using one piece of a heavier type of backing. Here at 'YES Ltd.' we stock a wide range including both 40 gram and 80 gram the latter being especially good for caps. Whatever method you use though we would not recommend using more than two pieces as the bulk that this creates could have an adverse effect after its removal. If you find that you need more than two pieces then you need to look elsewhere for the problem or you need to use a heavier backing. By the way when using two a good tip is to turn them 90 degrees to each other as this will give you better all-round stability.

In the end: In the end the quality rule applies just as it does in other areas of embroidery. Remember the saying "rubbish in, rubbish out" and you may understand what we mean. The backing you use for embroidery may, at the end of the day, be ripped off and thrown away but it still performs a very important task and does have an effect on the finished embroidery.

LAUNDERING:

Many only consider laundering to be a household chore but it is unlikely that the chef's jacket that you have just embroidered will be washed in the home. It is far more likely that it will go to a professional laundry where the aim is to get it clean no matter what it takes. Laundering can, and does, include any method necessary to get clothes clean and your embroidery has to withstand that punishment to the same degree as the garment. It is therefore important that you use the correct consumables, especially thread. Even if it is a standard garment such as a polo shirt make sure that you look at the care label to see what temperature etc is recommended. Most products these days carry a 40 degree label but don't simply take this for granted. All modern threads are capable of withstanding high temperatures but they will still have a limit and this must fit in with the garment.

 For more information on 'YES Ltd call 01623 863343 or e-mail them at sales@yesltd.co.uk

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