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A Stitch in Time...
Published:  02 February, 2009

There are many issues facing embroidery companies today, so P&P aims to tackle some of the most taxing. This month, printwear expert Tony Whitmore speaks to managing director of Your Embroidery Service, Roy Burton about designing patterns.

The Pattern:

This is all too often a forgotten subject and yet it is the key to good embroidery. No matter what level of equipment you have and how good you are at your job, if the pattern is poorly produced then the embroidery is likely to follow suit. May be we are being too harsh in saying "forgotten" but, unfortunately, many see the pattern as just being there and being right but all too often this is not the reality. These days, mainly due to computerisation, embroidery patterns are much easier to produce. Much of the individual skill required in earlier years is now handled by "the software program (PC)" and, whilst in the main this is a good thing, it has also opened the door for, let's say, the less knowledgeable, and that includes the embroiderer, to produce designs. Naturally we cannot deliver an in-depth digitising course within the pages of this magazine but we can give you a few pointers as to how to avoid the common pitfalls.

If you are new to embroidery use a professional digitising studio. You have enough to learn with the machine and the techniques without loading even more pressure on your shoulders getting to grips with a new piece of software. That doesn't mean to say that should not buy embroidery software because you should. Lettering forms a major part of most embroidery patterns and today's software delivers very good quality text (in most cases).

Add your own text. As mentioned above most packages these days generate good quality text and by doing this yourself you will save money and, quite possibly, time. This module of the software package is always easy to use and generally operates on the WYSIWYG (What You See Is What You Get) system with wizards to help generate the correct stitch density etc. Also most modern packages can convert TTF's (True Type Fonts) found on all PC's into stitched letters. There are a few rules about the size of letters etc but these should be covered in your software training. Some packages such as WINGS MODULAR allow you to buy just certain modules of the software so you can expand it as your skill grows.

Check the filtered stitches. All software, no matter what the vendors say, generates short stitches and some of the less able ones still produce what are known as blank stitches. Both of these are your sworn enemies and will create problems for you. If the studio you are using is good at what they do these should have been filtered out before the pattern gets to you but, sad to say, this is all too often not the case. Luckily most modern machines and software have the ability to isolate and get rid of these stitches for you.

Information is king. The end quality of the design may well depend on the information that you give to the digitising studio. Give them as much as you can such as the type of fabric that is being embroidered leather for instance has different needs to knitwear (send a sample if you have one), the type of product to be embroidered (patterns for caps may be different to those for polo shirts), the real size that the embroidery will be (don't approximate the size). Don't worry about giving them too much information. There is no such thing.

One size does not fit all. One pattern will not necessarily fit all uses. If the same pattern is to be embroidered on shirts and caps then, sorry, but you may need to splash out on two patterns. The same goes for a design that is to be used on different size shirts such as children's through to XXXL.

Tell them when you need it. I know that this sounds silly but you would be surprised how many forget to mention this until the day before they need it. If your digitiser knows that the job is urgent it gives them the opportunity to schedule the work accordingly. They have not got acrystal ball so tell them when you need it.

Final thoughts..

Difficult and intricate patterns require a greater level of skill and it may be that this type of work is always better contracted out. It has been known in the past for a design such as a ceremonial badge to take 8 - 10 hours. That's a full day's work for one design.

Ensure that the software suits your needs.. The software vendor should be able to offer guidance here.

Remember that this is your column so, if you have a problem, ask the question. If we can't answer it then we know a man who can! Send you questions to nbarston@datateam.co.uk and we'll do our upmost to ensure we provid the answers.







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