R

Registration: Correct registration is achieved when all stitches and design elements line up correctly. Poor registration can occur when the product being embroidered had not been hooped properly, improper digitizing, and excessive flagging.

Repeat: Layout used for making emblems or designs on a fabric span that are repeated at regular intervals.

Rotate Pattern: Program parameter that rotates the design in 90-degree increments counterclockwise, with or without mirror imaging the design.

Run Stitch or Running Stitch: Made when a single stitch is formed between two points used for outlining, underlay, and fine detail. Also known as a running stitch or walk stitch.

S

Satin Stitch: One of the three most common embroidery stitches used to produce an embroidery design. Formed by closely arranged zigzag stitches. Can be laid down at any angle and with varying stitch lengths. Commonly used for lettering and outlining. Satin stitches can range in width from 1.5 mm to 8 mm, however, the wider the satin stitch, the more susceptible they are to snagging and abrasion.

Scale: Program parameter used to expand or condense the size of the design without changing the number of stitches. A separate scale parameter is used for each direction.

Scanning: Scanners convert designs into a computer format allowing the digitizer to use even the most primitive artwork without recreating the design. Many of digitizing systems allow the digitizer to transfer the design directly into the digitizing program without using any intermediary software.

Short Stitch: A digitizing technique that places shorter stitches in curves or corners to avoid an unnecessary bulky build-up of stitches.

Specialty Fill: Allows the digitizer to produce special fill stitch patterns with a "relief" or motif design within the fill-stitch area.

Speed Control: Knob on the embroidery machine that allows the sewing speed to be adjusted up or down. On most modern embroidery machines, the speed at which the pattern is stitched varies according to the length of the stitch. Shorter stitches are made at higher SPM and longer stitches are made at slower SPM. This is necessary due to limitations of the movement of the pantograph and is also determined by the number of heads and/or hoops being driven by the machine.

SPI: Abbreviation for Stitches Per Inch. A system for measuring density or the amount of satin stitches in an inch of embroidery. See also Stitch Density. Most of today's embroidery machines measure needle movement in .1 mm increments. Therefore a thread space of 4 would be .4 mm in length.

SPM: Abbreviation for Stitches Per Minute that normally is referring to the running speed of the embroidery machine. Typical embroidery machine speeds can vary but generally will be between 500 to 1000 SPM.

Stabilizer: See backing.

Stitch Density: Refers to the number of stitches used to give proper coverage of the pattern without creating a thick, hard area in the embroidery that may be uncomfortable to the consumer.

Stitch Editing: Digitizing feature that allows one or more stitches in a pattern to be deleted or altered.

Stitchback: Sewing function that traces back through a design so skipped stitches and thread breaks can be repaired.

Stock Designs: Digitized generic embroidery designs that are readily available at a cost below that of custom-digitized designs.

T

Tackle Twill: Letters or numbers cut from polyester or rayon twill fabric that are commonly used for athletic teams and organizations. Tackle twill appliqué's attached to a garment have an adhesive backing that tacks in place; the edges of the appliqué's are then zigzag stitched.

Take Up Spring: See check spring.

Tape Reader: A device attached to an embroidery machine that enables the machine to read an embroidery design from 8-channel paper computer tapes.

Tatami Stitch: Series of running stitches used to cover large areas. Different fill patterns can be created by varying the length, angle or repeating sequence of the stitches. Also called fill stitches.

Tear away Backing: A non-woven material placed under the fabric being embroidered to add stability to the fabric. Once the pattern is completed, this backing can then be torn off the design due to the needle penetrations. Typically used on more stable fabrics such as woven goods. When choosing a tear away backing, you should test to make sure it tears properly. If it doesn't tear easily enough, it may pull out some of the stitches. If it doesn't tear cleanly, it can leave an ugly, ragged edge. If the backing tears too easily, it may not provide enough support for the embroidery pattern.

Tension: Refers to the amount of tension applied to the threads by the sewing machine, which can be adjusted. Many embroiderers use the 2/3 Rule meaning that if you look at the underside of the embroidery after it has been stitched, that you should see approximately 2/3 needle thread to 1/3 bobbin thread. Normally this is easy to do because most embroiderers use a white bobbin thread. Loosening or tightening the needle and bobbin tensions can accomplish this. Proper machine thread tension is critical to quality embroidery.

Tension Assembly: Device used to apply tension to the needle thread to form a stitch. Consists of a tension post with take-up spring attached, tension discs, tension release disc, tension spring and tension nut.

Tensioner: Are the devices on the front of the machine head that controls the tension on the needle thread. Each needle and thread position has its own Tensioner and all of them should be set as close as possible to get quality stitching. The thread tension assembly normally consists of a post, thread tension knob, tension spring and two tension discs. When the thread tension knob is turned clockwise, it screws down on the post compressing the tension spring on the tension discs. This applies more pressure on the needle thread that is sandwiched between the two tension discs and is against the post. More tension will pull more needle thread from the underside allowing more bobbin thread to be seen.

Thread: Embroidery can be sewn with many types and sizes of threads depending on the desired finished appearance. Embroidery threads are commonly made from rayon, polyester, cotton and metallics. Rayon threads are generally made with a twisted multifilament construction and have a high sheen. Polyester threads can be made in three different thread constructions including a twisted multifilament, air entangled and spun construction. Obviously, cotton threads are only made in a spun construction. Both spun polyester and spun cotton thread have a "matte" or low sheen appearance. Rayon and Polyester filament threads have a high sheen. Polyester is stronger than Rayon and has superior color fastness and abrasion / chemical resistance. Metallics are filament threads that have the highest luster and are formed with a synthetic core wrapped in metal foil. Generally metallic threads do not sew as well as polyester or rayon threads. The most common ticket size for rayon or polyester embroidery threads is a No. 40, however other sizes are available. A&E's Signature polyester embroidery thread comes in a variety of sizes including a No. 40, 30, 20, 10 and 3004 used for serging appliqués.

Thread Break Detector: Device that detects thread breakage and stops the machine automatically allowing the operator to rethread the needle and restart the machine. On multi-head embroidery machines, when the needle thread breaks on one head, all the machines stop. Therefore, using a thread that will minimize thread breakage is recommended to optimize stitching time.

Thread Break Indicator: Small light on the front of the sewing head that flashes when a thread break is detected.

Thread Clippers: Small spring loaded scissors designed to be operated with just the thumb and forefinger. Used to clip the thread.

Tie In Stitches: Small stitches used at the beginning of a sewing cycle, particularly on satin stitches, to prevent the thread from pulling out of the embroidery. See also tie off stitches.

Tie Off Stitches: Small stitches, usually about 1 mm in length that "lock" the stitches in the fabric to prevent the stitch from unraveling when the thread is trimmed. Without Tie off stitches the thread can potentially unravel and destroy the embroidery. They are particularly necessary when making satin stitches wider than 1.2mm, as satin stitches have a tendency to unravel more easily than running or fill stitches.

Topping: Materials hooped or placed on top of fabric that have definable nap or surface texture, such as corduroy and terry cloth, prior to embroidery. It provides a smooth surface so that the stitches can be laid down properly and prevents the wale or nap from interfering with proper stitch appearance. Includes a variety of substances, such as plastic wrap, water-soluble "foil" and open-weave fabric that has been chemically treated to disintegrate with the application of heat. Also known as facing.

Trimmers: Thread trimming device located under the needle plate in the embroidery machine used to automatically cut the needle and bobbins threads before the design jumps from one area to another or performs a color change. This trimming is done when the needle is out of the work and the take-up is near the top of its stroke.

Trimming: Operation in the finishing process that involves trimming the reverse and top sides of the embroidery, including jump stitches and backing.

Tubular Embroidery: Embroidery produced on a cylinder bed embroidery machine that allows tubular fabric or pre-assembled garments (i.e. sleeves). Allows sewing a part or the garment after it has been assembled, as compared to using a flatbed machine to sew fronts or sleeves prior to assembly the garment.

U

Underlay Stitches: Stitches in a design that are put down before the design stitches; used to stabilize the fabric or raise the design so that the fine detailing is not lost.

V

Variable Sizing: Ability to scale a design to different sizes.

Verify: Sample Sew-out of a new embroidery design to make sure the pattern is correct.

W

Walking Stitch: See running stitch

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