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With so much business now done overseas, Tony Whitmore of Your Embroidery Services argues the case for supporting the UK industry.
What has a sheriff got to do with the embroidery industry I hear you ask? The answer is, nothing, but it does demonstrate the attitude we should have towards our industry. Unfortunately, it is one that may be on the decline.
Trades and industries only survive if they are flexible, adaptable, reactive and have support from within. If some or all of these are not present then the future may not be as secure as we would like it to be.
As an individual or a company you can exercise control and influence over the first three but the fourth, support, needs a team effort from all concerned. We should also be aware of the "Prisoner Syndrome", where one thinks that their action has no influence because they are merely one in a thousand and it will therefore not matter what they do or think.
If we all reacted like that all of the time, then nothing would happen but everything would change. It is important that we all accept our responsibilities towards our industry so that we ensure its survival into the future. But what is all of this about? Simple, offshore production.
In the lifetime of a generation we have seen manufacturing industries in the UK decline. Importantly for us, we have seen one that is closely allied to embroidery topple from its top spot of being one of the largest employers in the country. The industry I write of is the garment manufacturing, textile and hosiery industry.
The United Kingdom was one of the largest suppliers not only to overseas markets but also, and more importantly, to its own market. Remember the days when one of the famous high street stores boasted that
98% of their goods were manufactured in the UK? Go and ask them now and see what the answer is.
However, we have to accept that things do change and it is difficult to turn back the clock. In one way, we were and still are responsible for the past, after all it is us that want and demand ever-lower prices for goods of the same quality so we should not moan when we get what we have asked for albeit with unfortunate circumstances. We can however have an effect on the future and we should take special care over the one that feeds and clothes us, the embroidery industry. Within the garment industries, embroidery has survived for two main reasons:
1. Its ability to re-invent itself
2. The level of expertise within the industry
Many years ago embroidery consisted of large embroiderers with one or more multi-head (usually 8, 10 or 12 head) machines churning out hundreds if not thousands of embroidered sweaters etc.
The high street stores depended on these companies to keep their shops stocked with popular items ensuring a continuous supply for their customers. Even when the manufacturing moved off-shore, embroidery maintained its presence in the UK but unfortunately, this was to change.
In a comparatively short time the ability to decorate garments moved to the same place as the ability to manufacture them and this could have spelled the end but the industry reacted.
As the larger orders moved off-shore, manufacturers such as SWF and suppliers like YES looked at the industry and realised that things had to change as the machines that were available were too large for the prevailing market. Thankfully the R & D departments got their act together and started designing and developing machines more suitable to an industry that seemed to be reverting back to something more akin to a cottage
industry.
Enter the single head machines, closely followed by the compact mono units. So, the industry now had the machinery but with the exodus of the larger manufacturers, much of the expertise had disappeared or, at least, that was the theory and this is where reason two comes in to play.
The demands of the large production orders meant that a fantastic level of expertise had developed amongst the suppliers and support industries and these companies did not dissolve into nothingness. They stuck it out and through hard and harder times managed to survive and offer continued support to the new embroidery industry that was emerging.
This proved to be a great benefit to those who were new to the industry as well as to those who were experienced but had changed their business. It would be fair to say that, in any industry, some experience and expertise is vital and embroidery is no different.
The new styles of machines required new knowledge both mechanically and electronically and this was, and still is, provided by support companies who themselves have adjusted and flexed. It is not however just machines that need support. Another prime example is that of designs or patterns.
Digitising or punching as it used to be known requires a skill. These days it would be fair to say that this, as with other skills and techniques has been made "easier" and this is mainly due to the advances made in both the embroidery and the operating software.
Without a doubt, the new breed of software makes things easier and faster but there is still a skill that can only be learnt from a combination of training and experience. The latter you get yourself but the former needs input from another person, an expert who needs to be in a position both geographically and knowledge-wise to easily and quickly help you.
To train and employ such people takes money, money comes from profit and profit comes from turnover. To guarantee the support of the experts that exist in embroidery digitising, you need to support them with your business.
It is no good sending your work abroad in order to save a few pounds and then expect to phone for advise from UK based companies who have nothing left to survive on. Loyalty is a two way street.
The attraction of "off-shore" purchasing is generally price but is this area where false economy is a fair description? I believe the answer is yes!
Many lower priced off-shore digitisers always seem to be able to supply a good quality design at a reasonable stitch count for the first few designs however this seems to change as times goes on.
It is not uncommon for later designs to be a lower quality and higher stitch counts. Remember higher stitch counts at lower prices may mean lower cost designs but it also means lower production. All machines runs at X hundred or thousand stitches per minute. The more stitches, the longer on the machine, the lower the production, the lower the profit.
Our industry survives and profits because the people involved in it give it the support it needs. We are an industry that has survived the rigours of off-shore manufacturing and despite the demands of others, we have kept our industry healthy and profitable. It has grown and prospered.
If we want to maintain ourselves and our industry we have to maintain the support we have shown to each other during past years. The suppliers and industry supporters will advise and help their customers, the embroiderers, but there also needs to be a return for them. As already mentioned, loyalty is a two way street.
For embroiderers to guarantee the support they have had in the past they must also guarantee the support they have given in the past. If we work together in the future as we have in the past, then our industry will survive and be as strong as ever. We have a good future together.
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