But it's not just the likes of Nike, Marks & Spencer and Next who are committing to sustainable textiles: over the past few years the printwear industry has seen a growing number of brands launching organic and Fairtrade ranges, with a real surge of activity in 2007, which is expected to continue in 2008.

PenCarrie's marketing manager David Abrahams has no doubts about the future growth of the organic and Fairtrade sector within the promotional clothing industry. "We did not hesitate to stock all 12 of Wombat's Fairtrade styles for 2008," he says. "Only three were available in 2007 but they were in great demand. Similarly, we stock all Okarma 100% certified organic cotton products including its new lines for 2008." Abrahams is keen to emphasise that "complete transparency with regard to working conditions and standards of production, and total traceability regarding materials, their source and subsequent treatment, is essential if consumer commitment is to grow."

PenCarrie has just published a newly updated ethical trading policy document, which includes individual statements from all the brands it represents, summarising how each organisation controls standards regarding ethical working practices and care for the environment. 

With regard to the cost of organic and Fairtrade clothing, Abrahams is practical. "There is an acceptance by the public that if they want organic or Fairtrade products, then they have to pay a little bit more," he says. "There is an element of exclusivity, after all. Organic cotton production is limited; and Fairtrade production tends to be small-scale. People understand that this adds a premium to the price.  However, if, for example, you compare t-shirt prices in our catalogue, the extra cost of a Fairtrade or organic cotton top is not so very much. If an organisation needs to emphasise its green credentials, this small extra cost is largely irrelevant."

The 12 Fairtrade tops from Wombat is quickly identifiable in PenCarrie's catalogue and on the website by the familiar Fairtrade symbol which appears alongside each style. Wombat's new styles for 2008 are as fresh and funky as ever and ideal for the urban surfer market, says PenCarrie. For example, the new WB171 Wallaroo Top (for the girls) is fashionably longer in length, and has a Roo pocket at the front. It comes in two colours: cool blue with turquoise stitching; and hot pink with purple stitching.

Meanwhile, one of the latest additions to the Okarma organic clothing collection is a Hooded Sweatshirt, OK31, made from 100% certified GOTS and Control Union combed organic cotton. Abrahams is confident this will sell in quantity. "Given that the popularity of hoodies seems to be permanently on the increase, an organic cotton version is bound to be snapped up. It's today's youngsters who are pushing their elders to pay proper regard to environmental issues; and this is a garment that will sell in volume - at music festivals, amongst the surfing community, and in all other youth related areas too." 

Indeed, Okarma's Nicci Persey is equally confident of both the range and the market as a whole, suggesting that as consumers are increasingly being made aware of the issues faced by conventional cotton farmers, more and more are looking to find an ethical alternative.

"The demand for clothing that has been produced from organically grown, chemical free cotton has increased dramatically and this trend is sure to continue as the emphasis is put upon us to take more responsibility for our actions," she says. "Ethically sourced brands made from organic cotton have been met with enthusiasm from people within the promotional industry, as they allow companies to highlight their commitment to environmental issues."

On price, Persey is upfront, echoing the view of Abrahams: "Unfortunately, the price of organic cotton clothing is higher than that of conventional cotton due to the sourcing of the yarn, production and logistics, but it doesn´t use any harmful chemicals in its production, which protects both the farmers who take care of the land as well as the land itself."

Launched in 2007, Okarma offers a wide selection of high quality organic cotton products. Its classic-style Unisex Premium Organic Polo Shirt (OK20) is available in a range of attractive colours (white, black, navy, red, olive, royal and undyed natural), with all dyestuffs being Control Union and Oeko-Tex approved. This polo shirt has a traditional three-button placket, taped neck and twin needle stitching at neck, sleeves and hem. Tonal colouring is used for the ribbed collar and cuffs and the taped side vents, and a small tonal Okarma logo is embroidered on the bottom left hem. 

New to the collection for 2008 are the OK31 Unisex Premium Certified Organic Drop Shoulder Hoodie and OK30 Unisex Premium Certified Organic Drop Shoulder. Both items are essential casualwear pieces, suggests Persey, and great for eco-conscious universities or sports teams. The hoodie has a double fabric hood for extra warmth and a front pouch pocket, while the sweatshirt has a 1x1 rib at cuff, hem and neck. Both are available in black and navy (coloured using SKAL certified dyes).

Other new products for 2008 on the accessories side are two bags: the OK71 Organic Cotton Gymsac and the OK70 Organic Natural Tote Shopper. "Already big news in the promotional industry due to their versatility, fabric bags are now spilling over to the ethical product industry too due to the bad press plastic bags have had in recent months," says Persey. "The natural unbleached colour of Okarma´s new bags make them perfect for decoration - with a name of a shop wanting to provide an environmentally friendly alternative to plastic bags, or with an ethical message from a company wanting to highlight its corporate-social responsibility, for example."

Persey predicts that 2008 will see the launch of many more ethically sourced brands, and existing brands will expand their product selections. "This area will continue to grow and develop in the years to come, not only in terms of organic cotton products, but also products made from other ‘ethical' materials like bamboo and hemp," she adds.

Another company expanding its organic range this year is Mantis World, whose family of brands includes Mantis, Humbugz, Babybugz and Tender Loving Clothing - a 100% certified organic combed cotton range. 

Now in its fourth year, the TLC range encompasses 11 styles, with two new designs and more colours available in 2008. Introducing a new lighter-weight fabric, the M104-TLC Organic Men's Jersey Box Tee is a relaxed-fit T-shirt made from 150gsm fine-knit Jersey. This style is available in four colours including black, white, organic natural and camouflage green.  

New for babies is the BZ10-TLC Organic Baby Short Sleeve Bodysuit - a classic style available in sizes for newborn to 18 months and in unbleached organic cotton.

Mantis World believes in fair and ethical trading and environmentally friendly working practices. All products from its collections are made by factories certified as fully compliant with internationally recognised standards of social responsibility and ethical action. The company claims to work closely with its affiliated factories in Tanzania, East Africa, where it is able to oversee a fully vertical operation that gives transparency at every stage of the production process.  

"We actively support fair trade, fair wages and fair working conditions for all, and are working to meet the exacting standards of the Ethical Trade Initiative Base Code to ensure our working conditions exceed international labour standards," it says. The company also holds the Oeko-Tex 100 Standard certification, which includes the most stringent Class 1 that incorporates babywear. "This guarantees the safety of all textiles and dyes to human health and means we take extra care in adopting more environmentally friendly production methods," says the company.

February sees the return of Fairtrade Fortnight, and one company that continues to support Fairtrade is Wombat, which this year has 13 100% Fairtrade cotton products. This year also sees the change over to Fairtrade in some Wombat classics: the Beach hoodie, Kowary top and Tambo tee, allowing customers to buy their favourite garments whilst supporting the Fairtrade movement. 

2008 also sees the introduction of two men's Fairtrade items: the Narrows hoodie, which is a retro classic full zip hoodie available in shiraz and navy, and the Hervey Hoodie, a button up hoodie available in navy and pebble. 

The girls range has further increased to include the Tumby vest - a long line racer back vest in super soft single jersey. The Birabee vest with side pockets and a blousen fit; the Maheno Top with smocking front detail; the Pinjarra Top with half sleeves and side pockets; and the Wallaroo Top with its Roo pocket and deep neck, plus The Noosa Vest, Tissica Tee and Airlie Top make up the 13 Fairtrade products. "With colours including Javan Dawn, Ginger, Hot Pink, Sunflower and Tarragon, the Wombat range really has brought ethical fashion into the Noughties," says Wombat. 

Why buy Fairtrade?

According to Wombat there are many reasons to buy Fairtrade products, but most important is the fact that Fairtrade guarantees a better deal for Third World producers. "Many farmers in these developing countries have to contend with fluctuating prices that may not even cover what it costs to produce their crop," says Wombat. "So in conjunction with companies like Wombat, Fairtrade promises a stable price, which covers their production costs, along with a premium that the cotton grower can invest in projects that enhance ssocial, economic and environmental development. 

"Elected Farmer Committees decide democratically how these premiums are spent. In Africa farmers have agreed to spend the premium on health insurance, water conservation and income generating schemes.  They are also active in schooling children, which in turn helps to end rural poverty and helps to empower women and girls." 

Although Fairtrade's first priority is to benefit people, Fairtrade is also committed to protecting farmer workers from harmful agrochemicals, which in turn leads to significant environmental improvements.  Fairtrade cotton workers must minimise and practice safe use of agrochemicals, maintain soil fertility as well as proper and safe management of waste and water resources and no use of genetically modified organisms. 

"We support Fairtrade because of our values and principles," adds Wombat. "It is the simplest way to make a difference, helping to empower the farmer and protect the environment." 

The Wombat range

Other new additions to the Wombat range include two towelling tops for girls: the first being the Mareeba Top, which is a three-button polo with knitted collar and cuffs, in the vivid colours of Lagoon and Fire cracker. The Moranbah hoodie is a long length hoodie with pockets, ideal for summer days on the beach when you need to wrap up after a dip in the sea. Wombat has also introduced a new ladies shirt, the Culburra, with pigment dying vintage washing, and a stripy top, the Wabby. 

For boys, the new contrast Warwick hoodie has patch elbows, sleeve cuff and hem and contrast side panels. It comes in kiwi and washed navy.  

As a guide to decorators wondering how to incorporate the range into their offering, the company adds: "The best way to achieve your potential with Wombat is to really think out of the box, scanning the environment around you to see what is happening in your area. University teams and student unions are always looking for innovative new designs for team kits and sports clubs," it suggests. "While holiday reps, tour guides, ski resorts, outward bound centres and adventure sport companies are all eager to keep up with the latest trends and update their look. And as the summer approaches, pubs and bars are taking a more relaxed approach to their uniforms especially those near the coast. Inner city corporate events and sponsorship are other areas to target, as Wombat will take them away from the conformity of grey suits and dull shoes - changing them from ‘nine to fivers' to team players with attitude!"

In demand

Michael Conway from distributor Quayside also expects demand for organic and Fairtrade products to continue to grow in 2008, and accordingly has added two new products to organic brand Saf, which it acquired last year.

 He believes that the higher price of organic products is becoming less of a prohibitive factor as more and more customers become aware of the differences and are willing to make the switch to organic products. However, to encourage this switch, Quayside has reduced prices where possible without any changes in the supply base or the quality of the product.

The increased number of organic products now available from distributor UKL is another testament to the growth of this market, which the company views as a very positive step forward.

UKL stocks the Mantis World TLC range, which as mentioned earlier, is made from 100% certified organic cotton grown in East Africa. In addition to this it offers Bella's new BA6020 for 2008, which is styled in exactly the same way as the BA6000, but manufactured in 100% organic cotton. There are four colours to choose from including an unbleached natural shade.

Despite the increased awareness of ethical and sustainable issues, UKL says that in some cases the end user still doesn't understand the cost implications of buying organic and Fairtrade. So in some instances, customers ultimately chose to take a ‘natural' colour product and support it with the ethical policy of the manufacturer when looking purchase an ‘ethical' product. "T-shirts manufactured in Natural have received no dye process," explains UKL. Brands that produce products in Natural include Fruit of The Loom (see 61-036-0), Jerzees Colours (ZT160 / ZT180) and Gildan (5000, 2000).

It adds: "The ethical policy provided by a manufacturer will often provide information on not only the working conditions, pay and freedoms of association for their factory workers, but also on the manufacturers policy on environmental impact."

To support an Ethical Policy a manufacturer's products are often supported by the Oeko Tex standard, which contains analytical tests for specified harmful substances and gives limiting values based on scientific considerations. A manufacturer whose product meets the requirements set by the standard is licensed to use the registered mark or label ‘Tested for Harmful Substances according to Oeko-Tex Standard 100' on his product.

Further re-enforcement is then given to the ethical policy through membership of independent organisations dedicated to the promotion and certification of lawful, humane and ethical manufacturing such as WRAP (Worldwide Responsible Apparel Production) and FLA (Fair Labor Association).

CONTACTS:

Mantis Email: info@mantisworld.com; Tel: +44 (0)207 224 8991

Okarma: www.okarma.org or contact your usual distributor

PenCarrie: Tel: 0800 252248; Email: sales@pencarrie.com; Web: www.pencarrie.com

Wombat: Email: sales@wombatclothing.com; Tel: 01244 287979; www.wombat.info

UKL:  www.uklonline.co.uk; Tel: 01793 496 599

WRAP: www.wrapapparel.org

FLA: www.fairlabor.org

Oeko Tex: www.oekotex.com

EcoCert: www.ecocert.com

Fairtrade: www.Fairtrade.org.uk

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