Because caps come in high and low profile constructions, the size of the design is critical. If the design is too big for the low profile cap, the cap driver will move higher up to the crown when it sews on the design and the arm of the machine is forced deeper inside of the cap. If the machine arm touches the crown it will cause distortion in the embroidered design.

Also, caps that are made out of corduroy or other fabrics that have a pile may have to have more underlay stitching, while the use of a topping when sewing will help the stitching to stand out clean and clear on top of these fabrics after it is embroidered.

Another style of cap is the six-panel construction, which has a central seam in the front face of the cap. Depending on the design this seam can be another obstacle for the puncher. The stitching must cross over the seam and not fall into it and disappear. When possible you can punch underlay stitches like a zigzag stitch that crosses over the seam to support the top stitching. However, on the cap the centre of the design must be lined up with the seam of the cap in the middle.

To help the machine operators so that they know for sure if the placement is correct, the puncher can place the first few running stitches so that it will be sewn into the middle of the seam. This again depends on the design and where the elements fall on the cap front in connection with the seam.

Punching

Whenever possible it is best to punch designs from the centre out and in some cases from the brim up. This keeps the hat from wrinkling and distorting in the circular frame. However, you have to path your punch design differently than when you punch for other items. With the circular frame if you punch with one colour across the cap to the other side, then you change to the next colour; when you go back to the first side where you began the first colour you may find your design to be out of registration because of the shifting of the material.

To prevent this shifting it is best to complete small areas one at a time, for instance lettering with outlines. Punch the letter and then change colour and punch the outline. In some cases, depending on the size of the letters, you can punch maybe two letters and then outline them. This theory of punching one section and then trapping it immediately with an outline is one that should be practised when punching for finished caps. I know this seems like a lot of work with more colour changes and maybe even in some cases more trims, but in the end it will result in quality embroidery.

A tip when punching large fill stitch areas: do not end your fill somewhere in the middle because you will risk that the material pushes up between the two sides of the fill and will bulge up and stick out between the stitching. It is best to punch the fill from the brim up in order to push the material up away from the brim.

The sample shown on page 74 is a design that was made with Madeira Bodybuilder 3D foam. It has been broken down into several stages to demonstrate how it was punched.

Placement

Multiple placements have become popular over the years. With the 270° cap frame the possibilities have increased, making it easier to embroider the sides of the cap without having to re-hoop. When placing the cap inside the 270° frame, make sure to fold the sweatband down. The metal strap of the frame must line up with the brim and should form a straight line around the cap. Regardless of the type of cap frame you use, make sure that it is sitting tight inside the frame. This will prevent your design from looking crooked. The sides of the cap are a nice place for small logos or a catchy phrase.

To embroider on the rear of the cap above the hole (also referred to as the key hole) will require separate framing. For this you can use a 12cm tubular frame, although there are other types of cap devices on the market that can also be used. The placement above the key hole is ideal for placing text like website addresses or event names. Remember, the radius of the arc above the key hole will vary between cap styles and brands – most punchers scan the rear of the cap to get the correct shape they are punching for.

Placing embroidery text on the strap closure on the rear of the cap can also be a bit tricky and the puncher must know how wide and long the strap is.

In his article ‘The Tour de Cap’, Steven Batts explained how to hoop the strap of a baseball cap, which said that to frame the strap you can use a 12cm tubular hoop with a stick-on backing. Before hooping the backing with the cap, first draw a line on the backing. You may want to also place marks on the side of the hoop so that when you are framing you will have a guideline to make sure the draw line on the backing is sitting straight inside the hoop. Next, hoop the corner of the cap along with the adhesive backing where the strap is connected to the cap; make sure that the strap is lined up correctly on the draw line. Cut through the top layer of the adhesive backing and peel the top layer away leaving the sticky side exposed, then stick the strap down.

Backing

Backing should be used on most caps. I like to use a heavy tearaway backing because it is stable and is easy to tear away after embroidering. When using the 270° frame I cut the backing into a large strip that will fit inside the cap and will cover the insides of the cap down to its sides. You may have to try out different backings because not all caps are the same: some may be softer, others stiff.

If punching caps is new to you do not worry if you destroy a few caps in the experimentation stage – you will not be the first to do so. Try to put your anxieties aside, as getting nervous and discouraged wont help you. In time you will begin to understand what is possible and what is not.

Email: info@madeira.co.uk
Tel: 01765 640003

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