This has forced many brands to take positive action and now they are taking a much more active role in the monitoring of what factories use to make their garments, ensuring that minimum legislative standards such as WRAP and ISO 2001 are adhered to. This includes such measures as dyestuff monitoring to ensure that Oeko Tex standards are met, to making supply chains more transparent and also including organic cotton in garments. Estimations show that there are now over 20 major brands and 1,200 smaller brands selling organic products, and this is only set to increase. The Organic Exchange anticipates that the organic retail sector will grow to approximately US$2.6 billion by the end of 2008.

Certification

One of the problems with so many brands offering organic products is monitoring the term. Some brands, including some well-known high street names, have been launching their organic ranges without full certification, which means that although the cotton used might be 100% organic, the way it is processed and the conditions it is manufactured under aren’t. Certification ensures that the garment (not just the cotton) is fully traceable from the farm to the finished product. If consumers want a truly organic garment, then they need to look for the mark of an official certification body, like the Control Union or GOTS.

Control Union stress that its stringent certification process is not just about certifying the cotton. It also certifies the ginning, the spinning of the cotton, and inspects the factories to ensure they meet their high standards for dyeing processes, batch control, segregation of storing the yarn, knitting the fabric and the chemicals used in the dyeing process. Also important is that the factories have effluent water treatment plants in place so that all the water from the dyeing processes is treated and cleaned so that it is fit for farming use.

New organic brand Okarma is 100% Control Union certified and the range is GM free. Okarma brand manager Nicci Persey believes customers are confused by the wide range of eco standards and labels. “I would be lying if I said I knew everything,” she admits, “as it is such a minefield. This is one of the reasons why it took us so long to bring Okarma to market. It took two years of thorough research from concept to certification of the new supply chain to delivery, but now we have a fully certified organic and ethically made product under our belts.”

The Okarma collection

There are three products to choose from: a men´s and ladies´ premium t-shirt (OK10 and OK11 respectively) and a classic style unisex polo shirt (OK20). Unlike most organic products, but necessary for the corporatewear industry, these products are available in a selection of colours with all dyestuffs being Control Union and Oeko-Tex approved. Colours common to all garments are white, black, navy, red, olive and (undyed) natural. The men’s tshirt is also available in sky; the ladies´ t-shirt in pink, and the polo shirt in royal. All products also have twin needle stitching at neck, sleeves and hem as well as a small tonal, Okarma logo embroidered on the bottom left hem.

Beyond the clothing

Okarma, also takes all the packaging and components very seriously. “We can’t ignore the fact that the garments have to be protected from dirt and the elements during their long journeys from supplier to the final destination, but we can ensure that their packaging is as environmentally sound as possible,” says Pesey. “We took the lead from the food sector and decided to develop fully compostable outer bags, which I think is a first in our industry, as well as swing tags made from recycled paper and outer cartons made from a mix of sustainable forestry wood and recycled. At Okarma we want to provide the industry with a garment that has had as little negative environmental impact as possible.”

Who is wearing Okarma?

With more and more companies wanting to use organic as a marketing tool, Okarma’s appeal is farreaching in the industry, says Persey. Initial response has been phenomenal and it’s already been used in a wide variety of promotional, retail and corporate environments. These include one local authority, who as part of its commitment to sustainability has decided to provide organic uniforms for its employees; a large well-known activity centre, which was attracted by the durability of the garments; as well as a national charity and a couple of universities.

“One well-known tourist attraction has also purchased a large number of Okarma tees, which have been printed up and are selling incredibly well,” she adds.

What’s next for sustainable textiles?

Persey believes the future in terms of sustainable textiles is twofold. “The first thing to consider is waste reduction. The ‘reduce, reuse and recycle’ mantra is well-established in connection with household waste, but it will become more and more essential to include this philosophy in terms of garment production too. One way in which this could be implemented is by following in Patagonia’s footsteps by re-processing and recycling garments to make into new wearables for the promotional and corporatewear market. This could include fleeces from recycled garments and bags made from PET bottles.”

She adds: “Another thing to consider is reducing fashion miles. Although many brands now ship rather than fly their goods over to save on damaging carbon emissions (in the case of Okarma, for example), the reality is that quick production, and therefore quick transport, is necessary and therefore often unavoidable. It´s obvious that there is no single solution to resolving this problem. Obviously the ideal would be to move towards a fully recycled and recyclable garment industry future, but understandably this is going to take some time and a lot of investment.

“However, it’s my philosophy, and the drive behind Okarma, that if we work together to support organic clothing, we can take the first steps toward an organic and therefore more ethical future.”

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